The watch world is experiencing a surprising yet unmistakably stylish revival of a design that’s over a century old, and it’s capturing attention like never before. But here’s where it gets interesting—this vintage-inspired look is suddenly trending in the modern horology scene, signaling a shift that might just redefine elegance in watches for 2026.
The first significant indicator of this change appeared unexpectedly at the end of 2025, with an increasing number of dress watches featuring what’s known as a tuxedo dial—an aesthetic rooted deeply in tradition yet perfectly suited for contemporary tastes. And as the new year kicks off, the trend has only gained momentum. Oris, a respected Swiss watchmaker, has officially thrown its hat into the ring by reintroducing its iconic ‘Bullseye’ dial, a design that first gained popularity back in the 1940s.
If you’re new to the concept, a tuxedo dial typically consists of concentric circles—usually in monochrome shades of black and white—that give the watch a refined and timeless appearance. Some versions elevate this style with the use of luxurious metals instead of simple pigments, exemplified by historic models like the Universal Genève Polerouter, which is often heralded as the quintessential tuxedo dial watch.
Drawing from an extensive and historic archive, Oris has recreated a specific dial design known as the ‘Bullseye’—a nod to the dartboard-inspired style with its three-circle pattern, which stands out even among other monochrome dress watches. Located in the archives since the 1920s, these designs surged in popularity through the mid-20th century, particularly from the 1940s all the way into the 1970s. Ulrich W. Herzog, the Chairman of Oris and a veteran of the brand since 1978, shared in a recent statement that bringing back the ‘Bullseye’ was a nostalgic yet strategic move. He helped organize a buyout that made Oris independent again in 1982, and this very style became a hallmark of his vision for the brand.
Interestingly, the last time Oris produced a ‘Bullseye’ dial was in 1998. Nearly 25 years later, the classic look is making an exciting comeback just as vintage styles are being embraced by a new generation of watch enthusiasts.
And this is the part most people miss: the ‘Bullseye’ dial now adorns the flagship model, the Big Crown Pointer Date, which reminds many of a dartboard. The outer ring is a matte white, complemented by a striking red date track that runs around the perimeter, with a distinctive red-tipped hand that points to the date. Moving inward, the dial features a black-and-white railroad-style minute track—reminiscent of the rings on a dartboard—and a broad black ring with crisp white numeral hour markers. The center matches the outer ring’s off-white hue and bears the brand’s logo at noon and ‘Big Crown/Automatic’ at six. At the heart of the dial, the actual ‘bullseye’ is represented by the base of the cathedral-style hands.
The luminous green Super-LumiNova on the hands and markers ensures visibility in low light, and the dial is protected by a beautiful double-domed sapphire crystal that adds to its vintage appeal.
One of the reasons the Big Crown Pointer Date is so highly regarded is its remarkable versatility. By tweaking colors and small design details, it can look sporty, utilitarian, or as elegant as a formal dress watch—like this tuxedo dial version. The ‘Bullseye’ variant comes in a well-proportioned 38mm stainless steel case, featuring classic coin-edge detailing, a satin-brushed finish, and an oversized signed crown, all contributing to its distinguished look.
Powering this watch is Oris’s reliable Caliber 754 automatic movement, which beats at 4Hz and offers an impressive 41-hour power reserve. The caseback, made of mineral crystal, reveals the intricate workings of the movement—an invitation to appreciate the craftsmanship.
For a finishing touch, the watch comes with a stylish black deer leather strap equipped with quick-release pins—sourced from Cervo Volante, an organization grounded in sustainable practices, as it collects deer hides from culling programs aimed at ecological preservation.
As for accessibility, this striking piece is currently available for $2,350 directly from Oris, joining the brand’s Big Crown lineup as a regular production model. Its modern yet nostalgic design makes it arguably one of the most compelling tuxedo dial watches introduced recently, combining vintage charm with contemporary functionality.
In summary, Oris’s revival of the ‘Bullseye’ dial perfectly captures the essence of vintage elegance with a fresh twist—just in time to lead the trends of 2026. But here’s a question to ponder: do you believe this style will stand the test of time, or is it just a fleeting fad? Share your thoughts and join the conversation—styles evolve, but some questions remain timeless.
